Thank-you. The ArchLinux base install is very lightweight, so its clearly a better bet for starting optimization ! Nevertheless, an even faster boot should be easily reachable with a buildroot based solution 😉
Hello, is this still useable? I’d like to use my Zibase instead of getting a Z-wave module for my openhab install… but since the addon was not updated recently, I’d like to know if it still works with openhab2? And where I can find the instructions to install it?
Hello, I still used it until few weeks ago (but with openhab 1.8). To be honest, I just build a Rflink based solution with MQTT (article to come in a few days) and it works muh better than the Zibase,so I probably won’t do any update. Moreover, I never been able to test Zwave as I don’t have such device at home.
Would you by any chance be making these replacement battery packs for sale? I face a similar problem but I am a klutz when it comes to electronics stuff.
Hi there , i really like this version .. and this i s what i want to build. Do you maybe have a good schematic ? because im a beginner. i dont know your photos.. looks great but i cant figure out the pins.. DO YOU HAVE A FRITZING? OR SIMILAR OR CAN YOU MAKE IT THE SCHEMATICS ? but like you have it .with 5 way schematic and mosi display..
Great work. I’m in the process of doing something similar with my X-Craft (which is definitely the most powerful and fastest ready to run RC hovercraft in my experience).
Was the hovercraft more or less powerful with the Li-Po battery?
Is there anyone out there who can help me out with photos of each page of an X-Craft’s manual/user guide, please?
I did the same battery upgrade. It gives much more run time, but the Hovercraft is also significantly faster e.g. it will now get ‘on plane’ on water. Very pleasing!
Did your X-craft go any faster with the new battery?
I did not see any change regarding motors’ power. Voltage with lipo are close to NiMH original battery I guess.
And… Hmmm I’m sorry but I do not have the manual anymore.
Unfortunately, the skirt has a hole now, and I can’t find somewhere to buy another one ;(
Hi, how do you play cd with volumio ? With a premium account ? Or with Nanosound CD plugin. I use the second one but i have many bugs, sometimes it doesn’t work, i didn’t have any sound and cd ripping doesn’t work at all.
Second question, i want to use your plugin gpiorandom. I have an click switch with two pin and it need to be connected to gpio pin who support interruption… pin 3 is ok ?
One on pin 3 an the other on grnd ?
Hi, thank you for your volumio plugin, gpiorandom is very awesome ! just one request, it will be nice if your plugin can control two buttons. Two button with three action will be nice !
And you think adding the fonction play a random playlist on spotify is possible ?
Hi, that’s a good idea to add another button. I’m not going to implement it very soon because I’m finishing a customm volumio build for my Odrophile tablet. But I keep your proposal in mind 😉
Hi! Thanks for sharing this! My Arduboy parts have been gathering dust all this time due to me loosing interest because SSD1306 Oled is too tiny. But Mr.Blinky (big thanks Mr.Blinky) made the SH1106 work for the Arduboy… now I got my SH1106 Arduboy… Thank you!
Hello, I came across this blog during a Google search about Pi DAC Volumio and CD player.
What about Power ?
I mean you are running a Pi / DAC and an USB CD player. Which Power adapter do you use? Does a simple Pi Power adapter (5v/2a) support the whole system?
Thank you!
I use only one power supply which is the one that comes with the PecanPi streamer : 9v 2.5A. The pi is powered by the PecanPi Board and the USB CD Player is powered directly from the USB port of the Pi
Great project! I gathered all the required parts and printed the enclosure: THANKS for sharing!.
Looking at the pictures, the text and the instructions in the rflink documentation I think there is one thing in the wiring discription that is not correct. The VCC of the STX and SRX should not be connected since the STX should be powered using D15 as stated in the RFLink documentation. This also seems to be what you have done in the last picture, but in the text and other pictures it still looks like the VCC’s of the STX and SRX should be connected.
In addition I have a problem with compiling the RflinkToJsonMqtt sketch. My Common.h looks like (only defined the MQTT_SERVER_IP):
+++++++++
// MQTT Server IP
#define MQTT_SERVER_IP (192, 168, 178, 2)
// MQTT Server name
//#define MQTT_SERVER_NAME “mqtt.local.lan”
// MQTT Server mode : comment out to use MQTT_SERVER_IP instead of MQTT_SERVER_NAME
//#define MQTT_SERVER_MODE_DNS
+++++++++
But when compiling I get an error that there are multiple definitions of ‘SERVER’ …. See the output below:
++++++++++
Arduino: 1.8.19 (Windows Store 1.8.57.0) (Windows 10), Board: “LOLIN(WEMOS) D1 R2 & mini, 80 MHz, Flash, Legacy (new can return nullptr), All SSL ciphers (most compatible), 4MB (FS:2MB OTA:~1019KB), v2 Lower Memory, Disabled, None, Only Sketch, 921600”
Multiple libraries were found for “PubSubClient.h”
Used: C:\Users\arman\OneDrive\Documenten\Arduino\libraries\PubSubClient
Not used: C:\Users\arman\OneDrive\Documenten\Arduino\libraries\ESP8266_Microgear
c:/users/arman/onedrive/documenten/arduinodata/packages/esp8266/tools/xtensa-lx106-elf-gcc/2.5.0-4-b40a506/bin/../lib/gcc/xtensa-lx106-elf/4.8.2/../../../../xtensa-lx106-elf/bin/ld.exe: sketch\RflinkToJsonMqtt.ino.cpp.o:C:\Users\arman\OneDrive\Documenten\Arduino\RFLinkMQTT\RflinkToJsonMqtt/Mqtt.h:15: multiple definition of `SERVER’; sketch\Mqtt.cpp.o:C:\Users\arman\OneDrive\Documenten\Arduino\RFLinkMQTT\RflinkToJsonMqtt/Mqtt.h:15: first defined here
collect2.exe: error: ld returned 1 exit status
exit status 1
Error compiling for board LOLIN(WEMOS) D1 R2 & mini.
++++++++++++++++
Any ideas what could be wrong? Thanks for the help.
You’re right, there was a mistake in my wiring table : the STX is powered by the Arduino D15 pin. I corrected the article.
Regarding the compilation, I still need to try again on my side with fixed IP option.
This is Serene from PCBWay, a global electronics manufacturer. Our main businesses include PCB prototype, PCB assembly, CNC machining, 3D printing, etc.
It’s a great pleasure to visit your projects on bluemind.org and find them relevant to our profession. Will you have a new electronics project? We’re willing to sponsor it by offering our services, such as PCB prototyping, and hope you review our services.
thank for your proposal, I appreciate. However, I don’t have any project on which I could use your offer for now. By the way, I already used your services to make an RGB to HDMI adapter for an Amiga 600 (see https://www.pimyretro.org/pimped-amiga-600/)
Glad to know that you’ve already tried our services. I hope you’re satisfied with the quality. Our offer is valid for a long time. If you have such a need and are still interested in the future, feel free to contact: serene@pcbway.com 😀
What about controller range I’ve ran into the problem that my hovercraft can only go so far away from me before the controller cuts out and it’s not a very far range you have any suggestions for that?
I did not encounter such problem. I would say that it was working at least around 50 meters from me. I don’t use it anymore as I built a new hovercraft which is way more powerfull
Maybe with a voltage regulator to power the receiver, but this would implies to cut the existing power line and to provide the requiered voltage (same voltage as if the original battery were installed)
Hello. Juat curious why you didn’t go for the apu board this time? I mean those that came after the apu2c4. Same as you I’m looking for something to replace my apu-based router. Thanks.
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Great post and your boot time is quite impressive also. With raspbian I get well over 1 minute. I might redo mine with archlinux 🙂
Thank-you. The ArchLinux base install is very lightweight, so its clearly a better bet for starting optimization ! Nevertheless, an even faster boot should be easily reachable with a buildroot based solution 😉
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Hello, is this still useable? I’d like to use my Zibase instead of getting a Z-wave module for my openhab install… but since the addon was not updated recently, I’d like to know if it still works with openhab2? And where I can find the instructions to install it?
Thanks,
Hello, I still used it until few weeks ago (but with openhab 1.8). To be honest, I just build a Rflink based solution with MQTT (article to come in a few days) and it works muh better than the Zibase,so I probably won’t do any update. Moreover, I never been able to test Zwave as I don’t have such device at home.
However, it works like any other OpenHab Binding, the documentation is in the official wiki : https://github.com/openhab/openhab1-addons/wiki/Zibase-Binding
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Emula ps2?
No, ps 2 emulation does not even work on XU4. AFAIK, there is no ps2 emulator on ARM architecture
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Hi!
Thanks for your post!
Would you by any chance be making these replacement battery packs for sale? I face a similar problem but I am a klutz when it comes to electronics stuff.
Thanks again!
Sorry but… no, I’m not going to sold such thing, I do it only on my free time 😉
Hi there , i really like this version .. and this i s what i want to build. Do you maybe have a good schematic ? because im a beginner. i dont know your photos.. looks great but i cant figure out the pins.. DO YOU HAVE A FRITZING? OR SIMILAR OR CAN YOU MAKE IT THE SCHEMATICS ? but like you have it .with 5 way schematic and mosi display..
Sorry for the delay. I’ve no schematics, but you should find what you need here : https://github.com/MrBlinky/Arduboy-homemade-package/blob/master/README.md
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Great work. I’m in the process of doing something similar with my X-Craft (which is definitely the most powerful and fastest ready to run RC hovercraft in my experience).
Was the hovercraft more or less powerful with the Li-Po battery?
Is there anyone out there who can help me out with photos of each page of an X-Craft’s manual/user guide, please?
I did the same battery upgrade. It gives much more run time, but the Hovercraft is also significantly faster e.g. it will now get ‘on plane’ on water. Very pleasing!
Did your X-craft go any faster with the new battery?
I did not see any change regarding motors’ power. Voltage with lipo are close to NiMH original battery I guess.
And… Hmmm I’m sorry but I do not have the manual anymore.
Unfortunately, the skirt has a hole now, and I can’t find somewhere to buy another one ;(
You could repair the hole with a bicycle puncture repair kit
Hmmm Good idea, thanks !
Hi, how do you play cd with volumio ? With a premium account ? Or with Nanosound CD plugin. I use the second one but i have many bugs, sometimes it doesn’t work, i didn’t have any sound and cd ripping doesn’t work at all.
Second question, i want to use your plugin gpiorandom. I have an click switch with two pin and it need to be connected to gpio pin who support interruption… pin 3 is ok ?
One on pin 3 an the other on grnd ?
Thank you for your help
Hi, I use a premium account for CD playing… it is more to support volumio dev than anything else.
Yes, Pin 3 is ok for interrupt. one wire on pin 3 and the other on GND (pin 4, for exemple)
Hi, thank you for your volumio plugin, gpiorandom is very awesome ! just one request, it will be nice if your plugin can control two buttons. Two button with three action will be nice !
And you think adding the fonction play a random playlist on spotify is possible ?
Thank you again +1
Hi, that’s a good idea to add another button. I’m not going to implement it very soon because I’m finishing a customm volumio build for my Odrophile tablet. But I keep your proposal in mind 😉
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Hi! Thanks for sharing this! My Arduboy parts have been gathering dust all this time due to me loosing interest because SSD1306 Oled is too tiny. But Mr.Blinky (big thanks Mr.Blinky) made the SH1106 work for the Arduboy… now I got my SH1106 Arduboy… Thank you!
Hello, I came across this blog during a Google search about Pi DAC Volumio and CD player.
What about Power ?
I mean you are running a Pi / DAC and an USB CD player. Which Power adapter do you use? Does a simple Pi Power adapter (5v/2a) support the whole system?
Thank you!
I use only one power supply which is the one that comes with the PecanPi streamer : 9v 2.5A. The pi is powered by the PecanPi Board and the USB CD Player is powered directly from the USB port of the Pi
Hi,
This is a great project. Thanks for sharing.
Regards
Leo
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1 year+ after this post, are you still happy with the product?
Yes, 100% ! Very reliable and powerfull 🙂
Great project! I gathered all the required parts and printed the enclosure: THANKS for sharing!.
Looking at the pictures, the text and the instructions in the rflink documentation I think there is one thing in the wiring discription that is not correct. The VCC of the STX and SRX should not be connected since the STX should be powered using D15 as stated in the RFLink documentation. This also seems to be what you have done in the last picture, but in the text and other pictures it still looks like the VCC’s of the STX and SRX should be connected.
In addition I have a problem with compiling the RflinkToJsonMqtt sketch. My Common.h looks like (only defined the MQTT_SERVER_IP):
+++++++++
// MQTT Server IP
#define MQTT_SERVER_IP (192, 168, 178, 2)
// MQTT Server name
//#define MQTT_SERVER_NAME “mqtt.local.lan”
// MQTT Server mode : comment out to use MQTT_SERVER_IP instead of MQTT_SERVER_NAME
//#define MQTT_SERVER_MODE_DNS
+++++++++
But when compiling I get an error that there are multiple definitions of ‘SERVER’ …. See the output below:
++++++++++
Arduino: 1.8.19 (Windows Store 1.8.57.0) (Windows 10), Board: “LOLIN(WEMOS) D1 R2 & mini, 80 MHz, Flash, Legacy (new can return nullptr), All SSL ciphers (most compatible), 4MB (FS:2MB OTA:~1019KB), v2 Lower Memory, Disabled, None, Only Sketch, 921600”
Multiple libraries were found for “PubSubClient.h”
Used: C:\Users\arman\OneDrive\Documenten\Arduino\libraries\PubSubClient
Not used: C:\Users\arman\OneDrive\Documenten\Arduino\libraries\ESP8266_Microgear
c:/users/arman/onedrive/documenten/arduinodata/packages/esp8266/tools/xtensa-lx106-elf-gcc/2.5.0-4-b40a506/bin/../lib/gcc/xtensa-lx106-elf/4.8.2/../../../../xtensa-lx106-elf/bin/ld.exe: sketch\RflinkToJsonMqtt.ino.cpp.o:C:\Users\arman\OneDrive\Documenten\Arduino\RFLinkMQTT\RflinkToJsonMqtt/Mqtt.h:15: multiple definition of `SERVER’; sketch\Mqtt.cpp.o:C:\Users\arman\OneDrive\Documenten\Arduino\RFLinkMQTT\RflinkToJsonMqtt/Mqtt.h:15: first defined here
collect2.exe: error: ld returned 1 exit status
exit status 1
Error compiling for board LOLIN(WEMOS) D1 R2 & mini.
++++++++++++++++
Any ideas what could be wrong? Thanks for the help.
You’re right, there was a mistake in my wiring table : the STX is powered by the Arduino D15 pin. I corrected the article.
Regarding the compilation, I still need to try again on my side with fixed IP option.
Hello,
This is Serene from PCBWay, a global electronics manufacturer. Our main businesses include PCB prototype, PCB assembly, CNC machining, 3D printing, etc.
It’s a great pleasure to visit your projects on bluemind.org and find them relevant to our profession. Will you have a new electronics project? We’re willing to sponsor it by offering our services, such as PCB prototyping, and hope you review our services.
Are you interested in the offer?
Hi,
thank for your proposal, I appreciate. However, I don’t have any project on which I could use your offer for now. By the way, I already used your services to make an RGB to HDMI adapter for an Amiga 600 (see https://www.pimyretro.org/pimped-amiga-600/)
Hello Jit,
Glad to know that you’ve already tried our services. I hope you’re satisfied with the quality. Our offer is valid for a long time. If you have such a need and are still interested in the future, feel free to contact: serene@pcbway.com 😀
What about controller range I’ve ran into the problem that my hovercraft can only go so far away from me before the controller cuts out and it’s not a very far range you have any suggestions for that?
I did not encounter such problem. I would say that it was working at least around 50 meters from me. I don’t use it anymore as I built a new hovercraft which is way more powerfull
Do you have any ideas for what I can do to increase the range?
Maybe with a voltage regulator to power the receiver, but this would implies to cut the existing power line and to provide the requiered voltage (same voltage as if the original battery were installed)
Hello. Juat curious why you didn’t go for the apu board this time? I mean those that came after the apu2c4. Same as you I’m looking for something to replace my apu-based router. Thanks.
Hello, as far as I remenber, basicaly 2 main reasons : availability in my country and the price 🙂
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